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While neither Christopher nor I is a huge fan of ornamentals (of which we have quite a few), we have committed to not making huge changes in our first year. That being said, we have already given our non-fruiting mulberry a major trim (an un-researched act, and a bit spontaneous, but necessary for the health of our gutters as well as for receiving light.) Now, I am going to do the ornamental plum.
I found this GREAT site on pruning ornamentals, and here is what it says about ornamental plums:
Deciduous Shade and Flowering Trees
Trees are like children; training at an early age will influence how they develop. Many homeowners are reluctant to prune a young tree, particularly when it is nothing more than a single stem or a few scrawny branches, but this is precisely when pruning should begin.
Ideally, deciduous shade trees (those that lose their leaves during the winter) and flowering trees should have one central trunk (leader) and five to eight strong lateral branches along the main trunk. Major limbs should begin about 5 feet above the ground and have good spacing around the main trunk.
Once the framework (trunk and main branches) of the tree is established, some annual maintenance pruning will be required. Each tree is different in its growth habit, vigor and pruning requirements, but there are some general considerations that may help direct your pruning decisions:
- A major limb growing at a narrow angle to the main trunk (less than a 45-degree angle) is likely to develop a weak crotch and may split during heavy winds and ice loads. Remove branches that have narrow crotch angles.
- Remove branches that grow inward or threaten to rub against nearby branches (Figure 10).
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| Figure 10. Remove suckers originating from below-ground roots (a), low-growing branches that interfere with maintenance (b), upright growing shoots or watersprouts (c), branches that grow inward or rub other branches (d), and branches that compete with the central leader for dominance (e). |
- Remove branches that grow downward from the main limbs which may interfere with mowing and other maintenance practices.
- Prune branches damaged by insects, diseases, winter cold or storms below the damaged area. Prune branches of pear, pyracantha or loquat damaged by fireblight disease several inches below the infection. To prevent spreading the disease, sterilize pruning tools between cuts by dipping the blades in rubbing alcohol or a solution prepared from one part house-hold bleach to 10 parts water.
- Trees such as Bradford pear, ornamental cherry, crabapple and ornamental plum form vigorous shoots (or suckers) at the base of the trunk and many upright succulent shoots (or watersprouts) along the main branches. These shoots starve the tree of valuable nutrients and detract from the tree’s overall appearance. Remove them while they are young.
Now, I haven’t yet attempted this, and it also says that it is better NOT to prune in the late fall; but, as it is shading my winter garden, I may still do it. Plus, it doesn’t get nearly as cold here as in other places (I think it snows in Georgia in the winter!) so it seems safe. Wish me luck!
More on Buggies Who Like To Eat Wood…
Since my last post on this, we have had further advice on dealing with termites at our house. One important idea – termite eradications are only guaranteed for 2 years. So, working with the conditions that create habitat for termites makes a lot of sense. Good home health goes a long way, essentially.
Here are some great tips on Prevention (from the Virgina Cooperative Extension)
We are going to put these pieces in place – but, we are trying to decide how serious the current problem is.
According to the UC Davis Pest Notes, Subterranean termites are the most destructive of pests. Eeek!
So, what are our options? At the Virgina Cooperative Extension, they sum it up as:
- Liquid Termiticide Application – essentially, treating the soil.
- Baiting – essentially, laying traps, which targets the termites themselves.
- Argentine ants or biological control elements.
As we are most concerned about our environmental impact on our land, it sounds like the Baiting is probably the way to go.
Professional Termite Baiting Systems
Advantages
- Baits are very environmentally friendly because there is considerably less active ingredient put into the environment compared to the hundreds of gallons of diluted insecticide used in liquid treatments.
- Termite baits are ideal for use around structures inhabited by persons with chemical sensitivity.
- In situations where the infested structure is within 50 feet of a well or 100 feet of a body of water, termite baits may be the only treatment option.
Disadvantages
- There are no means of coaxing termites into stations that are being monitored so it may take months before baiting can begin.
- Termite baiting systems when used alone do not protect the structure directly. Termites feeding within the structure will continue to do so until the colony is eliminated or they are controlled with an above ground station.
- Professional baiting systems are generally more expensive than barrier treatments because of the monthly inspections.
This is a direct excerpt from the Virgina Cooperative Extension pest control notes.
So, what is our Greening Gumview plan of attack? Stay tuned for To Fumigate or Not to Fumigate, Part 3.
Live within your water budget.
That was the strongest piece of advice that Christopher’s long-time friend, Brad Lancaster, gave us when he visited this weekend. Brad has written two books on Stormwater harvesting, rainwater catchment, and other things related to water. He is on tour right now, publicizing his second book, Rainwater Harvesting for Drylands and Beyond, Volume 2: Water-Harvesting EarthWorks. He graciously accepted our invitation (ok, our formal, eager request) to come to Gumview and look at the opportunities for water harvesting on Gumview.
The whole visit was filled with ideas about how to live within our ecological means on that property – and in an era where water prices in Windsor are incredibly high, and scientists say that water will be an even greater challenge than the Greenhouse Effect in the next 50 years, we were listening. Hard.
What Brad Lancaster had to say, in general:
- Wait a year before making any major changes. Yes, this is the THIRD time we have received this advice (Art Palmer, our inspector, and Jeff Hawks, the GC, also recommended this.)
- Consider “stacking functions” ( permaculture principle) with what we are planting – design for maximum benefit.
The Creek:
One of the main principles of water harvesting is to Slow It, Spread It, Sink It. Brad Lancaster’s site talks about the 8 Principles to Successful Water Harvesting; that is number 5. Here were specific recommendations about the creek.
- Bill Zydeek at the Quivira Coalition talks about 1-rock high fences along the creek to slow the passage of water.
- Possibly create an 1-2 eddies – essentially a small pool for water to remain in.
- Consider researching core-native species (within a solid 25 mile radius) for creating a wildlife corridor along the creek. We may need some contract “grow-outs” through our local nursery for that – but he thought that creating solid relationships with nurseries is a great idea, as it educates them about these different ideas, and moves us along much more quickly.
- He suggested widening the creek a bit (not deepening it) to further slow the passage of water, protecting our neighbors from flooding (something we are already hearing they are concerned with) and assisting in recharging the water table.
- For that wildlife corridor, consider several of the following uses: Medicinal; Food; Food for chickens; privacy screen. It could also be an “ethnobotanical seedbank” for local native nurseries.
- He also suggested that we plant “dry-farm orchards” in that area, as they would not need water due to the high water table.
- Consider which of the trees to get rid of (about 40 feet.) They block solar access, limbs drop in high-wind, they suck a lot of the water, they are certainly not native. Use a stump grinder to really get rid of them.
- If we get rid of any trees near the creek, mill them for lumber. We have to check out what variety they are, but he said that Eucalyptus is the main timber in South Africa and Australia. He recommended contacting “Gunner” in Santa Barbara for advice.
Capturing Runoff:
- There is a lane (an easement to get to properties behind ours) that our property line extends to. The road tilts towards our property, and the creek runs right near it. Brad suggested forming a burm, and then planting plants between the burm and the road, using water runnoff to irrigate the plants.
- On the eastside, which is slightly higher, there is a new property. He recommended putting screened fencing on the bottom of the fence so that water runnoff could make its way over to our side of the property.
- On the Northside, which faces the street, plant canopy trees that will create a sense of place, and eventually help slow the street down. Currently people zoom up and down the street. It would be great to put real bike lanes and otherwise slow things down over time.
The House:
- Brad talked about a co-housing principle of being able to see to the front yard and the back yard from the main daylight area of the house – essentially so you can easily see the kids playing in the front or the back. We can almost do that now, but it is interesting to think how we could further expand that idea.
- Create a front porch “experience” in the front – one that is more welcoming, maybe has more “eyes” on the street (windows, etc.)
- He recommended putting in a south-facing window so that there is more of a sense of connection between the house and the back-yard.
- In the bathroom, offices, kitchen, and anywhere else that is appropriate, consider putting in glass windows at the top of the wall to help natural light reach those rooms. I love this idea!
- Put the washer machine shed area near a planted area. Ideally, set up a cistern that feeds into the washing machine and then out to an irrigated area. They are doing this with great success in Australia (in fact, it is now required.) This makes a ton of sense.
Thanks Brad, for a fun and thought-provoking visit! See you next time!
We have started to get advice from local experts, as we are dreaming/thinking/planning about next steps. Below is a bullet point list of some of the ideas we recently got from Jeff Hawks at New Beginnings, a friend who also has redone not only my parent’s house, but several large projects in their neighborhood in Sebastopol.
- Put a 6-inch deep/wide “planter box” around the perimeter of the house, filled with gravel and dirt, to facilitate drainage.
- Someone really liked brick at this place; sell any bricks we don’t want at $0.50 a piece.
- Echoing our inspectors’ advice, wait a year before taking out any big trees or making any drastic remodels. Get to know the place.
- Replace only rotted stuff now, then slowly make other changes that were recommended by the inspectors as we work on the rest of the house.
- Take the canopy of the redwood tree in the front (which totally blocks the house and looks kinda scraggly) up to the top of roof?
- As a matter of maintenance, caulk all around the outside trim of the house, to keep water from getting in, around the windows and doors.
- Our roof has 3 – count em, THREE – layers of roof on it. We are definitely on the quest for a new roof (I will let Christopher talk about that) but Jeff recommended that we powerwash (only going downward) to get rid of lichen while we are waiting to figure out the roof (probably summer of 09).
- He recommended retrofitting the windows with a white vinyl (they are currently black aluminum, which sweats, and definitely creates problems with mold in this very-wet-very-dry climate) to update the look of the windows.
- He recommended colonial style trim near the floor, and a thinner trim around doorways and windows to quickly update the rooms.
- In the garage there is a push-up door; for extra space and an updated look, he recommended a pull-up door.
- Use blue shale gravel in the driveway. Possibly extend the driveway out.
- In the back, for the deck, use fiber glass roofing, and use tongue & groove framing.
- Change out all outlets & switches with clean white.
- For kitchen counters, he recommended “Meganite”. He also recommended working with John’s Formica. He recommended re-facing the cabinets (he said John’s could help us with that.) Their phone number is 707-544-8585
- For windows, he recommended working with Aaron at B&L glass, at 707-546-4143.
- He also recommended visiting the Home Depot Clearance Section whenever we were there, and to find medium-grade fixtures at on-sale prices.
- Overall, he said, we should be looking to do medium-upgrades. The house is in a neighborhood that has some nicer houses (we are literally on the line of “estate-residential” zoning) and some simpler suburban developments. If we go super-nice, we won’t get our investment back when we sell; if we go too cheap, stuff won’t last and we won’t be satisfied.
Jeff gave us a ton of ideas; he has been doing this work for a long time, did a beautiful job on my parent’s house, and is very practical and pragmatic about how to do things in a way that works with our needs and our pocket books. Thanks so much Jeff!
Today I found something I have been searching for for months: a tool to help monitor minute-to-minute energy use, from inside the house. Yes! The tool is known as the PowerCost Monitor and can be found here and here. Apparently easy to install, a detection unit goes on your utility meter which transmits a wireless signal to the display unit inside your house. It measures the kWh electricity usage at that moment, and a cumulative total of usage since the last time you cleared the display. Once you enter your cost per kilowatt hour, it will also display what your electricity is costing you in that moment.
Why is this so interesting?
You know the old saw: “you can’t manage what you don’t measure.” As someone who has looked at the utility meter, walked inside, turned on an appliance and walked back outside to read the difference, this device is a major time saver. I imagine there will be multiple “aha!” moments when you turn on the dryer or see how much the stereo really uses when it’s cranked up.
Being able to easily track moment-to-moment energy use is compelling, and transformative; any Prius owner will tell you how the car’s mpg dashboard changed their driving behavior. This technology will similarly influence behavior, something we urgently need. Yesterday Geoff Syphers of Sonoma Mountain Village quoted something Mary Nichols of California’s Air Quality Board said: 50% of the greenhouse gas emission reductions can be accomplished with technology and money. But the other half requires behavior change. Energy consumers must change their habits to reduce GHG emissions to meet California’s goals. This inexpensive technology can directly help make this change. Continue reading Watch and Save with the PowerCost Monitor
Inspections were completed on Friday and we received the reports on Monday and Tuesday. Three slightly overlapping inspections were done: an FHA appraisal, a comprehensive home inspection, and a bug and pest inspection. The FHA appraiser we never met, we only saw their report. The bug and pest inspection was done by Martin Rodriquez from Bug Busters, and the home inspection by Art Palmer of Art Palmer, Inc. Both guys we immediately liked and trusted, they both have that solid confidence that comes from being in the building trades for 25+ years.
The FHA appraisal was good, they valued the house $25,000 more than we are paying for it. I thought, based on their numbers, that it ought to be valued higher, but it’s better that the appraiser keeps the number low because the bank will see this report and we don’t want them getting any funny ideas. For the FHA appraisal and inspection, the primary factor is that there are no “FHA issues,” broken glass, peeling paint, non-functional appliances, anything that would keep the house from being move-in ready. Our mortgage broker was very happy about the FHA report, so that makes us happy.
The home inspection reports came in pretty much the way we were hoping, we hit the sweet spot: no deal breakers but enough problems that we can return to the bank (the property is a REO owned by IndyMac, stock price $0.062 at this writing) and wring some more money out of them. Continue reading Property Inspections
To Fumigate or Not to Fumigate? That is the question these days, as we sit here in escrow, letting ourselves imagine that we own this property even though we don’t yet have the keys. (We are really hoping there is some cool ceremony when we do finally get those keys.)
The Problem? Dry Wood termites, Subterranean termites, and beetles. We are told this is pretty standard in many houses of this age – ours was built in 1973, with an addition in the 80s. We want to have alternatives to the typical toxic gas fumigation that is usually used for termite control. Also, Subterranean termites need their own special topical application – more about that later.
Part of the problem is that some set of the previous owners were very good intentioned, but maybe not the most knowledgeable builder/designers – they built the brick patio right up to the house, and above the foundation, so that water drips down to the house – particularly in our very rainy winters. They also didn’t know to clean out the gutters, leading to water sheeting on the walls where it shouldn’t have. Finally, the dryer vent was disconnected under the house for who knows how long, thus creating the PERFECT climate for little buggies.
I guess there are several alternatives to fumigation; while we loved Martin from the Bugbusters who did our inspections, we are committed to finding alternative, non-toxic solutions. Continue reading To Fumigate or Not to Fumigate? Part 1
One thing we are excited to do is keep bees on our fledgling Super Green Gumview homestead. My grandfather was a beekeeper, and I still have a couple of the hives and equipment that my grandfather used. When I lived in Santa Fe I had numerous top bar beehives, and I am excited to get started again. Here’s a nice article by an intern at the Seeds of Change farm in New Mexico about top bar beekeeping.
More to come on this subject!
This is our record of our adventures planting and building and learning and documenting our new property. Much more to come soon.
Thanks for coming along!
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